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Post Info TOPIC: 8.2" 10 bolt. Upgrade or replace?


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8.2" 10 bolt. Upgrade or replace?
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Hello gents, 

I'll be installing a 375 horse 350 in my 67 Biscayne soon. And I can't decide what to do with my rear axle. It's currently an open 8.2 10 bolt with 3.08 gears. At a minimum,  I want to install 3.55 gears and a posi, maybe new shafts too. 

Or should I buy a 12 bolt and use that for a starting point? 

Are they're any other options for a rear axle swap that I'm not considering?



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Depends?

More info is needed.....are you planning on keeping the car for a long time or selling it soon.

Dan

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RE: 8.2" 10 bolt. Upgrade or replace?
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I really plan on holding on to the car for a long time



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In that case....I would invest in a GM 12 Bolt (weld the axles tubes)....or if you really want to spend some coin and have a bullet proof rear end....order a Currie 9 Inch.

Dan



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8.2" 10 bolt. Upgrade or replace?
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Postsedan wrote:

In that case....I would invest in a GM 12 Bolt (weld the axles tubes)....or if you really want to spend some coin and have a bullet proof rear end....order a Currie 9 Inch.

Dan


 That's good advice Dan, thank you. My last rear was a strange s60, I don't think I want to spend that money again. But a 12 bolt is probably a good investment



-- Edited by S10mk on Saturday 21st of December 2019 12:46:23 AM

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I agree with Dan, I am assuming you will be going through what ever rear end you use, putting new gears, a posi unit, new bearings etc. 12 bolt housings are generally available, you might as well do it right and do it once. 12 bolts will also have the mounts for the 4th control arm, not sure if your 10 bolt has that now. It will give you peace of mind when you drive your Biscayne aggressively, which I would expect you to do.

Pat

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RE: 8.2" 10 bolt. Upgrade or replace?
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Pat Dilling wrote:

I agree with Dan, I am assuming you will be going through what ever rear end you use, putting new gears, a posi unit, new bearings etc. 12 bolt housings are generally available, you might as well do it right and do it once. 12 bolts will also have the mounts for the 4th control arm, not sure if your 10 bolt has that now. It will give you peace of mind when you drive your Biscayne aggressively, which I would expect you to do.

Pat


 Yep, whatever I use would get a good once over. Ideally, a new set of shafts, 3.55 gear set, and a Detroit tru-trac. Which is my favorite diff. Just for the money invested, I would be better off starting with a 12 bolt.

My current 10 bolt already had the 4th control arm mount. I assume that's because it was a 283 car.



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9A1F0A7F-FCBE-45C0-9F36-66B935ADF4C4.jpegMike,I agree with everyone here. A 12 bolt should not be to hard to find for your 67. You can use any year from a B body from 1965-1970 there all the same and all will bolt in. The 12 bolt in my 68 came out of a 66 (I checked the date) lol. I like the Eaton/Detroit tru-track For the 12 bolt I have one in my 68 and It has taken a pretty good beating so far with no issues. Yup weld the axle tubes to the housing. And check the factory welds as sometimes these plug welds have porosity and can leak or seap a bit. I’m sure you know that moser makes brand new replacement axles that are not tapered like the factory ones. A good gear set with timken bearings etc new axle bearings and seals and your good to go! With that setup it should last a long time even with a stick car especially at the power level your going to be at. Your rear brakes are the same on that 10 bolt and will bolt up to the 12 bolt as will your brake lines. There all the same regardless if it’s a 10 bolt or 12 bolt. The only thing I would add and this is optional is an aftermarket a rear panhard bar or a factory station wagon unit. Reason being is that the wagon has a smaller bushing at the side it mounts to the axle. This helps to make the car feel a lot less “soupy” and handle better. Most of the aftermarket ones have the small ends on them as well and are adjustable. A rear sway bar helps quite a bit too. A Factory Chevelle one from 68-72 works but you will have to come up with the hardware for it. An alternative is one from Helwig. I have a Helwig on my car and it works just fine, comes with the hardware and instructions too. And the last thing is possibly boxing the lower control arms. This helps as there designed to flex and create a butter smooth ride. That last one is kind of a pain and if your not going to autocross or drag race the car I would just skip that lol . I can’t think of anything else good luck in your search for the housing let us know how it goes.



-- Edited by Spike on Sunday 29th of December 2019 01:22:59 AM



-- Edited by Spike on Sunday 29th of December 2019 01:25:46 AM

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